Thursday, January 26, 2012

The Rebar of Hope

A pile of laundry, waiting to be hand washed and strung up on a line to dry, can control the weather.  As soon as that pile of laundry is large enough that you think you might run out of line, or patience, when the time comes to let the sun do it's job, there is a thunderclap and suddenly, rain.  Rain in the desert will only happen when you run out of clean underwear.

We are settling into our new house.  As one might expect, the desert lacks wood, and as such the houses are uniformly constructed of concrete.  It will take a few carpets to soften the edges of this new life, and as we pass through the forty days of unbearable cold, we are finding warm corners.

Construction in Jordan is a symbol of hope.  Hope that a son will be born, and that son will move into the a second story add on.  Hope that one day you will be able to afford to turn your house into an extensive complex for all your sons' families and their families, and the families of those families, until you've created generational strong hold family houses.  The result of all this hope is that most houses have the tail ends of rebar exposed, protruding proudly out of the roof of each house, casting shadows on the one or two piles of building materials that wait, with baited brick breath, to be one day built into a second story for the unborn son and his unborn sons.  Walking down our street, looking at unfinished home after unfinished home, the tension between the rebar, the pile of concrete, and the expectation to produce male progeny is palpable.

We live in the bottom floor of a three family home.  The second floor is divided between our landlord's sister's family, and our landlord's cousin's family.  Our house has a formal living room and sunroom, which we have shut and forgotten about until more furnishings come our way, two bedrooms (one of which we will turn into a work out room), a living room, intimidatingly large kitchen, and a bathroom.

Up two flights of stairs to the roof the rebar pokes out of the second floor and stretches to the sky, living silently in a constant state of anticipation.

Saturday, January 14, 2012

Deep in the Shita

Here is where I don't comment on our two month hiatus.  Here's where I fail to mention that for the last two months we've been living in a village and learning Arabic, where I refuse to tell you how wonderful and inviting our host family has been and where I do not talk about my new Jordanian father being an Arabic speaking version of my real father.

You are now skipping four episodes and tuning into the new season.

Rumors of snow give way to great swaths of rain and I am reminded that despite thousands of miles, we've only switched deserts.  The Jordanian family-a term which extends three or four degrees further than it's English counterpart-gathers around stoves burning gas, or kerosene, or the byproduct of this season's olive harvest for warmth.  It is no coincidence that our first babblings in Arabic include invaluable winter commands to children such as, "SHUT THE DOOR", "BRING ME THE HEATER", and "MAKE SOME TEA."  Tea pots bubble over with cinnamon bark and water and the smell is a displaced Christmas.

We've landed very close to where we began.  We live about 15 minutes away from the village that we have been staying in for the last two months.  That puts us about 45 minutes from Amman and about 5 minutes from the Syrian border.  The US Government suggests I do not disclose our actual location which seems like fair advice.

How has the conflict in Syria affected our lives here?  Our need to furnish our giant home has bulged over the belt of our Peace Corps settling in allowance like so much unflattering muffin-top and thus we were on the lookout for a small, cheap, refrigerator.  We stopped and spoke to a used appliance salesman who's accent betrayed him as Iraqi.  "The Syrians have bought up all the small refrigerators."  That is all so far.

We are making friends, which is an important and sometimes doozy of a step.  On Thursday, our friend who spent a few weeks in Texas about a decade ago, took us to a party in Amman.  The party was gender segregated, as parties often are, and provided a mind altering combination of traditional Bedouin garb and Fendi hobo purses.  The women around me did not wear hijab and peppered their conversation with English, pronounced in Californian accents so precise they could have been extras on Laguna Beach.  Gun shots rang out in celebration, as is the custom, as Rick shmoozed with pharmaceutical reps and members of Parliament.  We were never able to determine the cause for such expensive diversion (complete with the best kanafa in Jordan), but discussion centered around the brother of a pharmaceutical distribution company's CEO being acquitted on fraud charges.

Leaving our social life up to the mood of fate.  Watch to see what happens next.